The movement of people and things is one of those elements which you find in every city, and in many ways it is quite similar. But also there are there variations which make movement unique, and why so often the travel is as much a part of the adventure as the destination. While I’ve by no means become an expert or even used all of the transport available in Hong Kong, I thought it would be interesting to try considering my impressions as an uninformed end user.
My first interaction with Hong Kong transportation was at the Chek Lap Kok International Airport. This is a relatively new airport, operating since the late 90s. Upon arrive we were shuffled on automated walkways (”flat escalators”), normal escalators, and then a tram. All the normal stuff you’d expect from a modern international airport. Whats interest is when first arrive at the airport, its very desolate, but as you get closer and closer to the immigration and baggage claim areas, more and more people start feeding into the same area, tho I’ve never found it to be to busy or hectic.
Leaving the airport you immediately see a sign for the airport express. HK$120 gets you to central hong kong 40 km away in 30 minutes. This train is fast clean, comfy, room for baggage, but very expensive compared to the rest of hong kong’s train system. Taxi is always an option, but will be about twice as expensive, and as long or longer. There are many buses which go between the airport and different areas of hong kong. They have room for luggage and prices are much more reasonable. I think we paid HK$18 for a trip between school and the airport (about half the distance between the airport and school). But travel time is about 1 hour.
But going to the airport is not part of everyday transport for most. What about half of hong kong does use on any given day is the subway system known locally as MTR (approximate daily ridership 3 million; approximate HK population 7 million). Given these numbers, at almost any given moment, the stations a filled with people coming and going, and getting a seat on a train is highly unlikely. However, with a train arriving very 5 minutes or less (sometimes as quick as 1 minute apart in the busy areas during rush hour), one doesnt usually have to wait long for a train. In fact there is almost no seating available in the boarding areas, because usually there is either a train waiting, arriving, or about to arrive whenever you get to the boarding area.
But I’ve skipped over one of the more interesting and known about parts of HK’s transit system, the Octupus Card. This is a normal credit card size card. Once purchasing one of these cards (requires a HK$50 deposit), you add value to the card at ATM-like kiosks. Then when entering and exiting stations, you simply scan the card, and again when you come out of the station you can the card, and it deducts based on how far you travel (Hong Kong uses a zone based payment system). The cards usually scan through wallets and even pursues. However, it does require actively placing the card on the scanning pad. What would be really novel is simply walking through an open scanner and passively get scanned.
Usually the level of congestion when exiting the stations is there is a person immediately in front of and behind you. But there is never really a wait to get in and out of stations. Stations themselves are well marked outside, with signage throughout the vacinity. In fact, if often feels you can never get too far from an MTR stop. Stations are quite large, so there exit points will leave you at least several blocks away from each other, at the furthest points. Each exit uses a lettering system, with a list of streets and landmarks near that exit. Thus it is usually easy to find where you are going, even if you havent been there before. And there are sometimes maps to be found. Additoinally, stations offer many services. The most common are 7-11 and bakeries, ATMs (probably the best place to go when you need to get funds), pay phones (while most everyone has a cellphone in HK, stations are the place to go if you’re out of minutes). Depending on the station, many other things may be find, including tourist shoping, clothing, electronics, shoe repair, etc. What you won’t usually find is a bathroom. In addition, most major stations are attached to a mall, which you are often invariably forced to maze thru in order to find your way outside. The statoins themselves are quite clean and well lit.
Some in the not to distant past, the MTR corporation merged with the KCR corporation. KCR is the commuter train, connecting the further reaches of the New Territories with Hong Kong. KCR consists of two lines, known as East and West. The Eastern line connects to Mainland China, which is a 40 minute commute. But for my the best part about KCR is that you can take bikes on it, which is specifically not allowed on MTR. While the whole process to get a bike on KCR is a royal pain in the ass, in my opinion, at least it can be done. To get a bike on KCR requires purchasing an additional freight ticket (HK$20), taking the front wheel off, waiting for the station attendant to buzz you thru the turnstile, put down your bike and wheel, go back out, scan your ticket, walk thru the turnstile, grab your bike, find the lift (not the escalator). At this point, all you have to do is endure all the stares and wandering eyes. KCR prices seem to be comprable to MTR (one downside of the octupus card is you never really pay attentoin to how much individual trips are costing), and wait time seems comprable to MTR. KCR does have built in TV’s, allowing you to catch up on news and commercials.
Bicycling in Hong Kong, as with so many things, is a contradiction of sorts. Unlike many other Asian cities, cycling is a form of transportation is virtually not existent in metro Hong Kong. In the New Territories (the suburbs of HK) people do use bikes to get to transit hubs, so you will see many bikes locked outside of these points. However, on the Kowloon side you will see people riding bikes, but there are usually delivery people, either with food, or some other kind of product; and you don’t see this activity nearly as much as other parts of Asia. As I’ve been told my one HK cyclist, the general sentiment here is that cycling was the old way of doing things, when people were poorer and less sophisticated. Hong Kong has moved beyond that stage, and so people now tend to look down on the bicycle. Many people will go and rent or bring out their beater bicycle on the weekends, and ride it around a park or river. Beyond this mindset, part of the reason there is very little commuting by bike is because of the traffic and how the public space is allocated. Not only is traffic thick in many placed, but it moves at a fast pace. Taxis, buses, and utility vehicles make up the vast majority of vehicles on the road drive with a heavy foot. Drivers race from red light to red light. And the general mindset is that vehicles have the right of way. Pedestrians in no way exercise a right of way mentality. It seems that if a driver sees a person crossing the road, they simply drive faster, as a way to remind everyone who rules the road. Unlike what I’ve seen in the states, when drivers might do this, but they will get confrontation from pedestrians, walkers here seem to support the car hegemony. Thus trying to be a cyclist, especially one that tries to act like a car, this is quite hard. At times you can have drivers literally staring at you wide eyed and drop jawed, as if simply unable to comprehend your presence on the road. In addition, many places you go with a bike, you will find yourself unaccomodated and unwelcome. Often being told you can bring a bicycle or without a place to lock up. The city has clearly taken an approach to transportation which simply ignored the bicycle as a practical means of transportation. Just getting between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon is possible by only one ferry, which stops running around 11pm.
Ok, more to come, but these are the basics. As for my thoughts about HK transport. Obviously they have a very good transit system. The subway especially is top notch. However, in my few months of relying on the subway instead of biking, I’ve found some unexpected results. For one, it sucks to always be underground. You don’t get to see anything out the window. Also, theres something about just sitting/standing on public transit that seems to create a level of drowsiness. At any given time, I can look around and maybe half the people will be dozing off. Of course, there are other reasons for this, but I find myself quickly tired feeling, for no good reason, after just spending a short time riding public transit. Personally, this makes me realize cycling really needs to be an integrated part of any cities public transit option. Not merely an addition, or in the case of HK, you could even say a purposeful exclusion.